Adventure & Extreme - 4 free documentaries about surfing & big waves.
Start with The Smartest Surfer In The World: Cliff Kapono (34 min, VICE), then Shark Attack: Jaws Invasion SPECIAL (44 min, National Geographic). All 4 documentaries here are free to watch from their makers' official uploads. To read deeper, the top-rated book on surfing & big waves is Barbarian Days by William Finnegan.